Your personal program · Phase 1 start

Climb
stronger.

3× climbing / week
4× strength / week
30–42 min / session
APT + wrist focus
Phase 1
Weeks 1–4 · Foundation
Phase 2
Weeks 5–8 · Load
Phase 3
Weeks 9–12 · Power
Mon
Climb
+ prehab only
Tue
Str. A
push · core
Wed
Climb
+ prehab only
Thu
Str. B
pull · hips
Fri
Climb
+ prehab only
Sat
Str. A/B
alternate
Sun
Mobility
long session
On climbing days
Do the daily prehab (12 min) before or after your session — that's it. No extra strength work. Your fingers and tendons are already loaded. Consistency here fixes APT faster than anything else.
On strength days
Start with prehab — it doubles as your warm-up. Then go into the strength block. Total time: 35–42 minutes.
On Sunday
The mobility session is where your APT and shoulder flexion actually change. Think of it as investing in your next week of climbing. Use a timer and hold the full durations.
Streak
Done
Phase
Week
Sun
Mon
Tue
Wed
Thu
Fri
Sat
Climb
Strength A
Strength B
Mobility
Completed
Do this every single day — including climbing days
~12 minutes. Highest ROI part of the program. Directly addresses APT and your wrist. Skipping strength sessions is fine occasionally. Skipping this is not.
Wrist conditioning · 3 min
Wrist circles10 reps each way
Slow full circles, both directions, both hands. Let the wrist crack if it wants to. Just priming blood flow before loading.
Quadruped loaded extension3 × 15s hold
On all fours, hands at 90°. Slowly shift weight forward until you feel gentle tension — stop just before any sharpness. Hold. Each week shift 5° further toward straight. You're currently around 75° — goal is comfort past 120° over 6–8 weeks.
⚠ Never push into sharp pain. Mild stretch only. Progressive loading, not a stretch contest.
Wk 1–2: stay at 90° → Wk 3–4: ~100° → Wk 5–6: ~110° → Wk 7–8: ~120°+
Wrist flexor curls2 × 12 reps
Forearm on your thigh, palm up, hold the weight plate. Curl wrist up slowly, lower slowly. Builds the flexor strength that stops your wrist hyperextending on crimps.
APT correction · 6 min
Couch stretch90s each side
Back foot up the wall, front foot forward, upright torso. Do not let your lower back arch — squeeze the glute on the rear leg and tuck your pelvis. If you can't get upright without arching, stay lower and work the range.
Goal: feels easy on both sides within 4 weeks of daily work.
Dead bug2 × 8 reps
On your back, arms up, knees at 90°. Press your lower back into the floor — hard. Extend opposite arm and leg slowly (4 counts down, 4 up). The moment your back peels up, stop and reset. Quality over reps.
Hollow body hold3 × 15s (add 5s/week)
Arms overhead, legs straight and low, lower back glued to floor. If your back lifts, bend your knees — the tuck version still counts. What matters is the posterior pelvic tilt.
15s → 20s → 25s → 30s → add weight plate on chest
Standing hip flexor raise2 × 10 each side
Stand on one leg, drive the opposite knee up as high as possible and hold 2–3s at the top. Builds the active hip flexion control you need for high foot placements — the difference between reaching a hold and being able to use it.
Shoulder & thoracic · 3 min
Wall shoulder flexion3 × 10s hold
Stand with lower back pressed flat to the wall. Raise arms as high as possible while keeping that contact. Hold where they "peel off." Push it 1–2° further each session without losing the flat back.
Currently ~90°. Goal: full overhead with flat back.
Seated thoracic rotation10 reps each side
Cross-legged, one hand behind your head. Rotate from the mid-back — not your neck, not your hips. Exhale as you rotate, inhale back to center. Try to find a tiny bit more range each rep.
Strength A — push · core · hips · ~28 min after prehab
Superset the paired exercises: do 1a, rest 30s, do 1b, rest 60s, repeat. Keeps sessions short without losing quality.
Pair 1 · push
Push-ups4 × 10–12
Chest to floor, full lockout. Elbows at ~45°. If 12 feels easy on all 4 sets for two sessions in a row, progress.
Phase 1: standard → Phase 2: archer push-ups → Phase 3: pseudo planche (great wrist conditioning too)
Pike push-ups4 × 4–5
Hips high, hands shoulder-width, crown of head toward floor. You got 3 reps — do sets of 4 with full control. Shoulder pressing is a weak link and limits overhead climbing reach.
Phase 1: floor pike → Phase 2: elevated feet on chair → Phase 3: wall handstand negatives
Pair 2 · core
Hollow body hold4 × 15s → 30s
Longer sets, focus on keeping legs straight and low. When you hit 30s consistently, add the weight plate on your chest.
Tuck L-sit4 × max hold
Palms flat beside hips, push through the floor, lift your butt, knees tucked to chest. 4 max-effort holds with 30s rest. Add 1s per session when it feels controlled.
3s tuck → 10s tuck → one leg extended → full L-sit
Pair 3 · hips
Single leg glute bridge — reps3 × 12 each
Slow and controlled, squeeze at the top for 1s. Hips level throughout. This is where APT gets fixed over time.
Phase 2: elevate foot on chair → Phase 3: add weight plate on hip
Copenhagen plank3 × 15s each
Side plank with top foot resting on a chair, bottom leg hanging free. Loads the adductors — critical for high feet and hip turnout on the wall.
Phase 1: top foot elevated → Phase 2: knee on surface → Phase 3: full Copenhagen
Bench dip / straight bar dip3 × 6–8
Using two chairs or a low bar. This is your mantle trainer — the lockout at the top is almost identical to pressing out on a mantle. Full extension at the top, controlled lower.
Phase 1: bent knee bench dip → Phase 2: straight leg → Phase 3: add weight plate on lap
Strength B — pull · grip · hips · ~28 min after prehab
Climbing-specific day. Emphasis on pulling mechanics and grip endurance. Keep pull-ups submaximal — quality over grinding.
Pair 1 · pulling quality
Scapular pull-ups3 × 8 reps
Dead hang, then without bending your elbows, pull your shoulder blades down and back — like starting a pull-up but stop right there. Every pull-up and every climbing move should start with this.
Pull-ups4 × 5 (submaximal)
Max is ~7–9 fresh. Do sets of 5 — slow and controlled (2s up, 1s pause at top, 3s down). Full dead hang between reps. When 4×5 feels easy two sessions running, move to 4×6.
Phase 2 at 10+ reps: add 5kg plate → Phase 3: archer pull-ups for single-arm prep
Pair 2 · grip & dead hang
Dead hang variations4 × 25–30s
Rotate through: overhand shoulder-width → wide overhand → chin-up grip → active (shoulders packed) → passive (relaxed). Builds the connective tissue climbing volume alone won't develop fast enough.
Goal 60s → then 30s one arm with band assist
Inverted rows3 × 10–12
Set bar low or use a table edge. Lie under it, overhand grip, body straight. Pull chest to bar. Trains horizontal pulling — balances pressing work and keeps shoulders healthy.
Phase 2: feet elevated → Phase 3: weighted or one-arm assisted
Pair 3 · posterior chain
Single leg Romanian deadlift3 × 8 each side
Hold the weight plate in the opposite hand to the standing leg. Hinge at the hip, back flat, rear leg rises as you lean forward. Feel the hamstring and glute load. Slow and controlled.
Phase 1: bodyweight → Phase 2: 5–10kg plate → Phase 3: heavier or tempo
Sumo squat hold3 × 30s
Wide stance, toes out ~45°, hold the weight plate at chest. Sit into a deep squat and hold. Builds the abductor/adductor control and hip external rotation needed for stemming. Push your knees out actively throughout.
Phase 2: add reps (3×12 slow) → Phase 3: heavier plate
Hanging lat stretch2 × 20s each side
Hang from the bar one-handed, let your body drift slightly away from the bar arm. Deep stretch along your lat and side. Directly improves overhead shoulder flexion for climbing.
Sunday mobility session · ~35–40 min
No strength work. Long-term changes to APT, hip flexors, and shoulder happen here. Use a timer and hold the full durations.
Hips & APT · 18 min
Couch stretch2 min × 2 rounds each
First round: just settle in and breathe. Second round: actively squeeze the glute of the rear leg and gently tuck your pelvis. The stretch should deepen over 2 minutes without forcing it.
90/90 hip stretch90s each configuration
Sit with both hips at 90°, one leg in front and one behind. Upright torso, lean gently forward over the front shin. Trains the hip internal rotation needed for hip turnout and flagging on the wall.
Standing pike — active3 × 30s with 10s rest
Feet hip-width, reach forward and down. Try to reach 1–2 cm further each hold. Let gravity work. No bouncing.
Butterfly stretch2 × 60s
Seated, soles of feet together, gently press knees down with elbows. Trains adductor and inner hip flexibility critical for stemming — pushing outward into corners requires length here. Lean forward slightly to deepen.
Shoulder & thoracic · 12 min
Wall shoulder flexion — extended4 × 20s
Same as daily prehab but hold longer and push for a bit more range each hold. Back stays flat. Breathe into the restriction.
Thread-the-needle60s each side
On all fours, slide one arm under your body until shoulder meets the floor. Let gravity rotate your thoracic spine. Zero effort — pure passive rotation. Great for your mild thoracic stiffness.
Doorframe chest opener2 × 45s × 3 heights
One hand on a wall, gently rotate body away. Three heights: hand at hip → elbow at shoulder → arm overhead. Each hits a different part of the pec and shoulder capsule.
Wrist & fingers · 8 min
Extended quadruped holds5 × 20s
On Sundays, push your wrist extension range 5° further than your daily dose. Still no sharp pain — use this session to set the week's new ceiling angle.
Finger tendon glides2 × 10 full cycles
Open hand → hook fist (DIP straight, MCP bent) → full fist → open again. Slow and deliberate. Keeps the tendon sheaths healthy under climbing load.
New benchmark entry
Numeric metrics
Qualitative metrics
Pull-upsreps
Dead hangsec
Push-upsreps
Hollow bodysec
Tuck L-sitsec
Wrist angle (pain-free)°
All entries
When to advance to Phase 2 (weeks 5–8)
All of these, not just some. If one category lags, stay in Phase 1 for that exercise while advancing others.
Pull-ups7 reps10+ clean
Dead hang39s60s+
Hollow body15s35s solid
Tuck L-sit3s10s
Couch stretchvery restrictedupright, easy
Wrist extension (loaded)~75° pain-free120°+ pain-free
Shoulder flexion~90° flat-back150°+ flat-back
Pike push-ups3 reps8 clean reps
Phase 2 unlocks
Weighted pull-ups · Archer pull-up progression · Elevated pike push-ups → wall HSPU · Weighted hollow body · One-leg extended L-sit · Single-arm hang with band assist
Phase 3 unlocks
Archer pull-up negatives → single arm pull-up · Pseudo planche push-ups · Full L-sit → straddle · Wrist loading fully straight · Fingerboard progressions